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Schmatta Hook - Dec 2010






In this experiment I want to see just how many clothes hooks a person really needs.

A few weeks into the experiment the subject has 2 articles on the lower hook and none on the top hook. Clearly I've provided an abunance of hooking capacity.

Design

I wanted a deep hook, one the sticks out from the wall a fair bit. This would make hooking clothes easy I should think.

I wanted a head on the hook that wouldn't damage clothes and minimize deformation. The head also had to hold the clothes well, one clothes wouldn't easily slip off.

Wood and copper would match the closet interior.

Following the Gadget Craftsman tenet of increasing effort and adornment in the less public places in the home I could put a lot of effort into this peice. It is in the most private area of the home and would be covered for the most part. While it would be somthing the owner would interact with daily. It could simply be the finest Schmatta Hook in the world.

Build



This was a quick project, just 2 days. Quick is a relative term.

First step is to dig through the parts bin.



The solid brass arms are always at the top of my list.

One great resource we have here in Phoenix is a plethora of new cookie cutter homes. Virtually all of these have the same basic brass and glass lighting fixtures. These are one of the first thing new home owners look to replace. On a craigslist pickup you can get a dozen fixtures. These fixtures do contain some solid brass parts that are easy to remove. Some parts are thin brass plate which rust in a few years and why these can be purchased for a song.

One Hook - Two Hooks



My first idea was to mount the arm like a fish hook. Screw the long shank to wood and get one hook.

That proved to be more difficult than I initially thought. So I fiddled for a bit and saw I could mount it this way and get 2 hooks. Plus it looks so much better.

Copper





Annealed copper water pipe. In most cases I flatten copper pipe and get a double thickness. But here I needed a wider piece so after annealing I split the pipe open. A ¾" pipe yields a piece almost 2 ½" flat sheet.

Once annealed the copper cuts easily with shears.

Laid over the arm, tight between the wood supports, and pounded into place when a rounded softwood punch.

Solder





I picked out a couple of polished brass & aqua green crystal cut stair rod finials from Shop 4 Classics. I purchased 2 years ago for the supply cabinet. At $11 a pair which makes this a pricey schmatta hook. They're $16 now...which makes them the best investment I've made in a decade...I guess, sort of.

Their brass is soild brass with female thread and a short bolt. I found a could of longer bolts in the lamp parts box. These bolts had an oddly flat long head, like a thumb screw which just fix into the hollow brass arms and matched the finial thread. So I solder the bolt heads into the arm.

Done

I finished the wood with Minwax Tung Oil Finish. If I had to pick one finsh it would be tung oil. Impossible to mess up, drys pretty fast, little odor, lasts in the can a long time, just a piece of cloth to apply, easy to touch up later.

I did put a single brass nail through the arm into the wood (beneath the copper) to stop it moving. The copper gives it most of its strength which was impressive.