Medicine Cabinet

Combination of rich wood, simple white subway tile, and a little bit of brass.

Medicine Cabinet

This is a fairly normal size medicine cabinet, but it really doesn't provide enough storage for two people. In Feydeau 2.0 I'll rethink bathroom storage. When was the last time storage on the medicine cabinet wall was changed? 1900? I'm thinking of making the wall the sink is on a much thicker wall for lots of builtin cubbies and cabinets for todays lotions, potions and whatnots. I need to look even more at the wasted space in hollow interior walls.

Maybe even doors could be made thick to hold storage, like the secret door bookcase.


Simple Craftsman style. Made from the same solid ¾" Brazilian cherry used to trim windows and doors. The panel in the door is ⅜" engineered (plywood) Brazilian Cherry tongue and groove flooring.

The door is not as flat as I would have liked. Lack of experienced. I have to take more care in the future.

For shelves the thin ⅜" plywood flooring can be glued back to back to get a ¾" thick ply with finished hardwood on both sides.

Antique glass knob.

Cast Iron Hinges


I picked up many hinges off EBay so I'd have a good selection. Easier to select from an array of choices in front of you. Finding a specific piece can be a lengthy process.

I removed rust and painted these hinges black and red. The paint didn't really add interest and I wouldn't repeat in the future.

Mirror in Picture Frame

framed mirror

I tried a couple of different mirrors.

Old bevelled mirror in an old frame. I like the idea but this frame was too Shabby Chic.

Also tried a mirror tray, too tacky for me.

Ended up just geting a basic, but thick, mirror from a local vintage store, $8.

Mirror Mounts

mirror mounts

Mounting the mirror was a chance to dress up the basic mirror a bit. The black curved parts are part of an old typewriter's key strike mechanism. I like their Art Nouveau look and they hold the mirror on nicely.

The arms are all different sizes so I had to use two typewriters. They are copper plated steel with a tough black paint over the copper. It is possible to steel wool off the black paint leaving the copper, but the black provided contrast here so I left the original paint.

Holes for mounting were already present. Brass nails in one end, bent over on the inside of door. Brass bolt in the other hole. The bolt can be removed and the arm swivelled out of the way to remove the mirror if needed. When bolted in place the connection is strong and long lasting.

Pull Down Door

I wanted a place for small electrical devices and a bit more counter space when needed. So I made this shelf with a pulldown door and electric outlets inside.

Knob is the "Tabular" off a Royal typewriter, tombstone shape, epoxied in place.

I was concerned the shelf, would need some kind of support such as chains or brackets beneath. So far the hinge alone have held nicely. When I mounted the hinges I made sure the edge of the door hit the frame when opened as a stop. I have since noticed a few small antique tables which used the same principal.

Over Built

Using hinges as the only support concerned me. My normal tendency is to over build which I had always considered a good feature, like many less than experience craftsman do. This door taught me scaling structure to need can be a better way. It doesn't have to be a sign of corner cutting. I will endeavor to put more trust in materials in the future. If I don't try to reduce structure, when appropriate, I will never progress.

Outlets Inside Cabinet

Two outlets (GFI circuit) inside the cabinet, one on left side, one on right. Keeps shavers easy to use and out of sight. Has been a pleasure to use.

This shelf is not large enough for most hair dryers. Next time I will make it large enough and in the bottom a hole for the hair dryer cord.


To make the catch I used the dead bold out of a cast iron mortise door lock.

lock insides

100 year old cast iron mortise door lock. Many that I got off EBay were is rough shape. But the dead bolt was solid brass swedged onto a plated steel arm.

bent catch

Cleaned up and bent 90 degrees to form a catch. Being soild brass I could file a curve on the tip so the catch would pull tight when turned.

catch side view

Mounted in cabinet, not level, to enhance catch pulling the door tight.

catch front view

View of catch when door is open.


Latch on back of door is off a typewriter. The square hole in this part fit the shaft on an old glass cabinet knob. Can't beat that. Drilled a hole through part and shaft and pegged with a nail forming a rivet.


Glass knobs, sweet.