Silt Vac Leaf Trap Build Instructions
The leaf trap screws to the bottom of the pump via a hose.
The plans below assume the pump being used is a 1/6 HP FloTec Tempest II Pump, FPOS1250X.
No other pump will work without modifying the plans.
Hose Connection Cap
4" PVC or Styrene Sewer & Drain end cap. The PVC version is more expensive and normally has a rounded end which isn't as easy to work with. Also needed is a 1-1/4" PVC Male Adapter and a 1-1/4" metal electrical conduit lock nut.
With a hole saw drill a hole in the center of the end cap. The hole doesn't have to be perfectly centered. The hole needs to be just large enough for the threaded end of the male adapter to pass through.
Dab some PVC cement around the lip of the drilled hole in the cap and some around the collar of the male adapter. The collar is the part in the center where the thread ends. The glue is kind of optional so don't worry too much about perfect coverage.
Push the threaded end of the male adapter through the hole from the outside of the cap. Tighten the lock nut onto the threads from the inside of the cap.
Glue the end cap onto a 8" long piece of 4" PVC pipe. Sch 40 is OK but expensive. PVC Sewer & Drain pipe works very well. This peice will now be referred to as the body.
Not shown: Glue a piece of 1-1/4" PVC pipe into the fitting on the body. Only about 3/4" of the pipe should be sticking out of the fitting. Too much pipe showing would allow the hose to jam too far onto the pipe making it hard to disconnect the hose.
4" Styrene Sewer & Drain end cap is needed. A PVC end cap is normally too rounded to make a solid connection to the pump bottom.
Remove the bottom of the FloTec pump so it can be used as a template. Place the pump bottom on the cap so the outside end of the cap is against the pump bottom. Cap needs to be showing through 3 screw holes. Drill 13/64th holes through the screw holes through the cap.
Tip: Put screws through the cap/pump bottom so the cap can't move out of position.
Tip: Two of the screw holes have to be very close to the cap wall. This makes lining up the cap tricky. If one hole is too close to the cap wall the screw head will hit the cap wall making it impossible to screw the cap to the pump later. What you can do is drill the first hole about 1/6" in from the wall without using the pump bottom as a template. Doesn't matter where around the cap the hole is, just that it be 1/16" in from the wall. Now a bolt can be put through a screw hole in the pump bottom and through the hole in the cap to hold the cap in proper position at least in at this one point. Now the cap just needs to be rotated so 2 other holes in the pump bottom line up with the cap.
Mark the pump intake on the cap while all 3 screw holes are lined up.
Using a hole saw drill out an opening for the pump intake.
Not shown: Cut a 1" length of 4" PVC pipe, same stuff used for the body. That gives you a ring that will go inside the cap. The ring will act as a stop to keep the leaf body from going too far into the cap and getting stuck. However two of the screw holes are so close to the outside the ring will cover them up. So notch out the bottom of the ring about 1/4" up at the same points the screw holes will be when the ring is inserted. Add a little glue and push the ring all the way inside the cap making sure the notches in the ring line up with the screw holes.
Trace the outside of the end cap onto a piece of paper. Fold the paper in half so the traced circle is folded exactly in half. Light weight paper is best so you can hold it up to the light to see the outline line up.
Unfold the paper and place cap back onto the paper, open end facing the paper, aligning with the traced outline. Mark the outside of the cap where the fold is on each side of the cap.
The reason for all this trouble is later 2 posts on the leaf trap body will fit into either notch we're laying ouy now. If we mess up the position of these notches it's not a big deal. It just means the leaf trap body will only attach to to pump one way instead of either way.
Cut an 'L' shaped notch in the cap about 3/16" to 1/4" wide. The vertical cut should be centered on the marks made using the paper. The horizontal cut should be about 1/8" above the stop inside the cap. When looking down onto the cap's inside the horizontal notches should go clockwise.
Between the pump bottom and cap a gasket can help get a water tight seal. This isn't absolutely required. You can also use some silicone or any kind of thin foam rubber. I used 1/4" neoprene cudely cut to the size of the cap with a hole for the pump intake.
The pump bottom can be put back onto the pump accept for the 3 screws that will be used to attach the leaf trap..
11" x 9" piece of 1/4" vinyl coated wire mesh. Uncoated is cheaper, easier to find and will work. The vinyl coating is easier on the hands when emptying the basket.
The "Plus tabs" in the picture is referring to the wire ends sticking, referred below as "tabs", out along the right edge. So its almost 11-1/4" wide.
Roll the wire into a cylinder and hook the wire tabs around to hold the shape. You should have a cylinder 9" long.
A 3" x 3" piece of mesh, plus tabs around all 2 edges, will now be needed for the cylinder bottom.
The edges of the 3" x 3" piece are bent so the piece will slide into the cylinder. Bend the tabs around the walls of the cylinder to fasten itin place.
Note: the bottom isn't right on the end of the cylinder. It's about 1/2" in from the end. This will hold the leaves up off of the pump intake to reduce clogging.
You should now have a basket, open only on one end, that fits inside the 4" PVC body. It's a little longer than the body too.
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